Elias Corner

My companion and finally heeded the siren call of Astoria and all of its culinary riches - we moved there. I spent the past few days stocking up the fridge with taramosalata and tzatziki from Mediterranean Foods (23-18 31st St., 718-721-0221), skordalia from Angelo's Food Emporium (31-27 Ditmars Blvd., 718-278-0705), and still-warm, freshly made mozzarella from Rosario's Deli (22-55 31st St., 718-728-2920). Then, it was time to celebrate our move in an appropriately bacchanalian way; we headed over to the legendary Elias Corner.

Were it not for the elevated train, one would think this was a seaside restaurant. A display of glistening fish and shellfish is the focal point of the entrance, and the dining room is painted a nautical blue. We sat down to a giant loaf of sesame bread and a plate of olive oil, and listened to our waitress rattle off the menu (there is no printed menu). Did we want jumbo shrimp, porgy, red snapper, Chilean sea bass, striped sea bass, branzini, wild salmon, soft-shell crabs? Grilled or fried? Oh, and appetizers? Saganaki, fried calamari, Greek salad? How about sides? Fried potatoes, broccoli, lemon potatoes...

To start, we ordered the saganaki, a large brick of slightly melted, firm cheese enveloped in a thin, crispy crust. We liberally squeezed it with lemon and soon there was none left. We also devoured a tomato-heavy Greek salad, which was sprinkled with plenty of feta. Then it was time for the main event: the fish.

"I think this is the best fish I've ever had," said my companion. digging into an herb-sprinkled Chilean sea bass steak. Wordlessly, I agreed, my mouth full of sweet, mild branzini (I'd ordered it whole so I could enjoy the grilled skin). There was no way we could even attempt to eat the lemon potatoes in their bath of warm olive oil, and we had to have them wrapped up.

Sighing with satisfaction, we paid the check - and then walked over to Artopolis Bakery (but that's a subject for another post).

Elias Corner: 24-02 31st St., Astoria, (718) 932-1510.